Running Recommendations: Fall Running in the West
Fall is here and I think most of us (especially us native Oregonians), are ready for the changing of seasons and all the lovely colors and cooling, refreshing temperatures that come with it. Warm fires in the fireplace (not the forrest!) , making homemade apple pear cinnamon crisp from fresh fruit purchased from a drive on the Hood River fruit loop, the smell of fall scented candles, and of course the stunning fall foliage which I was privileged to witness this fall in so many places far and near.
This year for my annual fall trip to Park City UT for the Mountain Land Running Summit running medicine conference, I decided to road trip it out there with my loving, ever patient and agreeing husband Rob and our faithful companion, Rhodesian Ridgeback Huntington.
All in all, we logged 2,700 miles on our two-week stint covering mountains and high deserts: from the stunning Sawtooth Mountains, trails, and hot springs in Sun Valley and Ketchum, ID; to the craters of the Moon National Monument; in Park City, UT running on the Great Salt Lake Desert; traversing the Northern Nevada desert on route to the driest and darkest corner of Oregon, the Alvord Desert, nestled at the base of the magnificent Steens Mountains; to the Strawberry Mountain Wilderness and Malheur National Forest; to the John Day Fossil Beds National Monuments including Sheep Rock, Clarno and the Painted Hills!
Here is a recap of some of the places and trails I feel compelled and obligated to share with other runners because they are truly some beautiful places to trail run and hike and should not be kept secret for my own pleasure.
Exploring Eastern Oregon
This was my first visit to the southeast corner of Oregon, despite living here my entire life. Now I see why the famed Steens Mountain Running Camp for high schoolers is such a big deal! The terrain and scenery is stunning, particularly in the fall with all the forests of golden yellow aspens. We even spotted a wild Kiger horse, which as an equestrian, was particularly exciting!
The Alvord desert itself was stunning, I had my morning runs on the flat playa running into the sunrise. It was flat and fast and some of the most inspiring running surroundings I have experienced in years. It’s so quiet running out there, just the sounds of my foot steps on the dry, hard packed desert dirt floor.
The sunset runs were also completely hypnotizing, with the melding colors and a chorus of howling coyotes serenading me along the way home. The star gazing was also incredible, its truly the darkest place in Oregon. The constellations and stars looked like you could just pick them up with your finger tips out of the sky!
The hot springs in the Alvord desert are also highly recommended after a long day of hiking or running. We stayed in an old military bunk house, and there are also camp sites. (But there is no potable water, so you must plan accordingly.)
The best trail run I did out there was the Pike Creek trail at the base of the Steens Mountain. It starts in the Alvord desert and runs up a picturesque moderate canyon trail to the base of the Steens. The trailhead is only one mile down the road from the Alvord Hot Springs. Huntington and I did not see one soul on the path out and back trail run. If you’re a geology buff you’ll love all the changing rock formations! Apparently there are cougars and rattlesnakes to watch for in the lower canyons, but I did not see any.
There are even remnants of old gold mining tracks and huts on the trail. I highly recommend the trail in the fall with an early start to avoid the heat later on as it is total exposure to the sun! Don’t forget to wear a hat and sunscreen, and a long sleeve wicking running shirt and bring plenty of water and electrolytes.
Another amazing trail run or hike is Little Strawberry Lake en route to the summit of Strawberry Mountain. It is a very gradual uphill trail which makes it nice trail for running. Sure footing, dry and not slick makes for a nice trail run.
There were lovely alpine lakes, and we spotted four mountain goats on the cliff side! It looks like little Switzerland up there, with the lovely fall colors and foliage. We even got engulfed by a herd of cattle being driven by two ranchers on horseback with their herding dogs. What an authentic “Wild West” experience!
If you have never visited the John Day Fossil beds, it is worth the trek! While these are short walks, not hikes or trail runs, they have stunning scenery and are spread far apart, so it’s a great break to stop and stretch the legs.
The Sheep rock is named after all the big horn sheep that used to stand on the precipice of the rock. The Clarno unit gives you an opportunity to see real wild fossils outside and the Painted Hills are of course one of Oregon’s Seven Wonders. The pictures don’t do it justice. You must see for your own eyes for your surprise!
Sunny Sun Valley, Idaho
In Sun Valley, the trail I recommend for a lovely fall trail run or hike is the Proctor trail. This is a locals’ favorite and is close to town. We spotted four coyotes on our hike and up the mountain is the remnants of a bit of history: the worlds first chair lift, Proctor lift.
The trail ascends gradually then moderately through the aspens until the peak elevation of the trail, then loops out into open space with wonderful views on top with total exposure on the way back down. I recommend an early start as it does get warm from the sun and altitude, and is also dry, so pack plenty of water and electrolytes.
Peaks in Park City, Utah
There are thousands of miles of trails to choose from in Park City, it can be overwhelming to choose. Remember Park City is at 7000 ft elevation, so that alone will make any run you attempt much harder than at sea level if you’re not acclimated.
While attending the conference, Huntington and I tried Armstrong trail, which is another locals’ favorite.
Another good option is Jeremy Road, where we did a killer 15 mile speed workout on a packed dirt road.
Running out on the Great Salt Desert is not to be missed if driving through the area. Much like running on the Alvord Desert, it is flat and hard packed but salty and crusty! What a phenomenon!
The Crater of the Moons National monument is also a thing of wonder. I did some hill repeats up a light, porous rock formation similar to a sand Dune. This is not a place for dogs, as they are not allowed on trails and the rock in this area is razor sharp and will shred their paws. Fall is the quintessential time to visit , as it would be much too hot to visit in the summer.
In closing, as I reflect writing about these experiences, these long hours spent driving, and the beautiful state we call home, I can’t help but feel a sense of gratitude for the moments spent this fall on this trip in nature and exploring corners of our land I only dreamed of. I hope it inspires you to get out and fall into fall running!
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